Dora Lives
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Pioneer. Felon. Genius. Con man. These titles (and many more) have been draped on the shoulders of legendary surf icon Miki Dora for decades. Yet very few ever got close enough to get a clear picture of who Dora really was. Hitting bookshelves today, David Rensin's All for a Few Perfect Waves offers a rare and engaging look at the life and times of an elusive figure known famously as "Da Cat." Armed with hundreds of interviews and meticulous research, Rensin tackles the man, the myth, and the legend of Miki Dora.
I recently chatted over email with Rensin about his pursuit of a man once dubbed "The Black Knight of Surfing."
Amazon.com: Miki has been compared to everyone from Jesus to James Dean. After reading All for a Few Perfect Waves, I found my own comparison:
he was the Tyler Durden of surfing. Akin to the Fight Club character, surfers
cannot always condone Dora’s antics, but we quietly support his pursuit for
point-break perfection. Do you agree?
Rensin: I agree. Miki, like Durden, was that sage of harsh
reality who made his own way, and the hell with the rest of you. Like Durden he
was not completely a loner, and was willing to bring along new initiates if
they attracted him with their own inner search. Often while writing the book, I
kept thinking about Fight Club and how the rule never to talk about Fight Club
was Miki’s rule for himself. Many of Durden’s aphorisms apply as well to Miki:
"The things you own end up owning you." "It’s only after we’ve
lost everything that we’re free to do anything." And my favorite,
"Fight Club exists only when Fight Club begins and when it ends." Or,
as Miki famously said: "When there’s surf I’m totally committed. When
there’s none, it doesn’t exist."





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